The Emerald Isle: A Travel Feature

(Speaking of pubs, let me dispel a myth - they are not the same as American bars. In fact, they are a social gathering and meeting place, where neighbors and families come together at the end of the day to relax and enjoy each other’s company. Most pubs also offer some form of entertainment, and if not, you might be treated to the local patrons improvising their own. Children are welcome, and my two year old nephew was the star of one pub when he danced to an Irish jig.)

But more, it is a country that evokes that sense of coming home, even while you’re visiting a place that is new and exciting. It is that warm welcome that brings visitors back again and again to Ireland.

Even Walt Disney World now welcomes “the luck of Irish,” with the opening of the Raglan Road Pub in Downtown Disney – a charming Irish pub, offering a great time with wonderful food, live entertainment in the form of dancers, musicians, and storytelling. Be sure to take a small step onto the Emerald Isle next time you visit Walt Disney World.

Roughly the size of the state of Maine, Ireland is an island country located west of Great Britain, and the only European country with no direct connection to mainland Europe, either natural or manmade. Despite its small size, there is much to see and do. In fact, its size is often its biggest draw, as it is easy to travel all over this country and experience the diverse scenery and experiences. Ireland is also easy to reach, a short five or six hour flight from many East Coast cities.

Ireland has a mild climate, and it’s very possible you may experience all four seasons in a single day. Rain showers are possible at any time, so it’s always advisable to bring layers, especially if you are going to be out and about all day. The day may start off chilly, then warm up, then rain, then grow cold again.

Despite Ireland's reputation for rain, most visitors report that weather did not impact their vacation. But if it does rain, you may be able to experience another amazing sight: one of the most brilliantly beautiful rainbows you’ve ever laid eyes on. And when the sun comes out, you will quickly learn why Ireland is called the “Emerald Isle.” There aren’t enough words to describe the shades of green blanketing the rolling hills when the sunlight brings the countryside alive.

Visitors arrive in Ireland at either Shannon on the West Coast, or Dublin on the East. Dublin is the capital of Ireland, and a city rich in history and culture. Here you can visit Trinity College, and see the famous Book of Kells – the most beautifully illuminated medieval manuscript in Ireland; St. Patrick’s Cathedral, the oldest Christian site in Ireland; St. Stephen’s Green, a tranquil park in the midst of the bustling city; Dublin Castle, or the Guinness Brewery. There are also many museums, and don’t forget to visit Temple Bar, a collection of cafes, shops, art galleries, bistros, live music venues, nightclubs, and pubs.

An hour’s drive from Dublin will bring you to the Wicklow Mountains, exhilarating country where rock-strewn glens provide sharp contrast to the forested mountains, and heather paints the bog lands with a purple sheen. Glendalough, nestled in the mountains among two lakes, is not to be missed; aside from historic and archaeological attractions, the sight of the morning sun sparkling through the valley’s fog evokes the sense that you have traveled back in time. For garden lovers, a stop at the Powerscourt House & Gardens is a must; stop for lunch here to take in one of the most amazing views in Ireland.

North of Dublin is the Boyne Valley, where the famous archaeological site of Newgrange can be visited; a World Heritage Site, this tomb is also the oldest solar observatory on Earth. Nearby is the Hill of Tara, for centuries the spiritual heart of Ireland and seat of the High King.

To the West of Dublin, visit the Shannonbridge Bog Railway, a 45 minute tour that will make the landscape come alive. Here as well you can visit Clonmacnoise, once a thriving ecclesiastical center of scholarship.

Journey south, then, to Kilkenny, considered Ireland’s most popular heritage town. Kilkenny Castle is the town’s largest and most impressive visitor attraction. From there, you can easily visit Jerpoint Abbey, the best kept Cisterian abbey in Ireland, before continuing on to Waterford, where you can stop at the Waterford Crystal Factory and watch glass crafters at work, much as they have for the last two hundred years.

Continuing along the south of Ireland, magnificent coastlines, dramatic mountains, and peaceful lakes will greet you. The south also has a rich heritage, displayed in the number of prehistoric monuments, Norman castles, fortified manor houses, Georgian architecture, and heritage towns. The climate is warmer here, thanks to the Gulf Stream, and the scenery breathtaking.

For food lovers, a stop in Ballymaloe is a must (dine at the Ballymaloe House). One of Europe’s foremost culinary schools is also here. Visitors can take short classes (ranging from one to five days). Continue on then to Kinsale, the culinary capital of Ireland, and its annual Gourmet Festival. From there you can visit Blarney Castle and kiss the famous Blarney Stone – said to grant eloquence to those who kiss it. If you dislike heights, keep in mind that to kiss the stone, you have to lean out over the edge of one of the castle towers to do so. An assistant holds on to you so you won’t fall, but it can be unnerving!

Continue on to Cork, the third largest city in Ireland, also known as the Festival City. Many festivals are held here throughout the years, including the Guinness Jazz Festival, the Irish Folk Festival, and the Choral Festival.

The Ring of Kerry, a route around the Iveragh Pennisula, beckons next. The route begins in Killarney, wandering through villages, hugging the edges of mountains high above rocky shorelines before dipping down to sandy coves and forests below. Many argue that the Ring of Kerry is the most beautiful scenic route in Ireland.

But if there is one thing you must do in this region, it is the Gap of Dunloe. You can hike, bike, or drive up through the Gap, and you will be astounded by the amazing scenery all around you.

North of Kerry is the Dingle Pennisula, which is my personal favorite scenic tour in Ireland. Nothing compares to Connor’s Pass high in the mountains, where you might find yourself spending hours just looking out among the countryside, lakes glistening like jewels below you. It is the most unforgettable view in all of Ireland.

From here, you can journey into the West of Ireland, a region characterized by wild and dramatic scenery, interspersed with interesting towns and beautiful countryside. The Rock of Cashel, the seat of the Kings of Munster beginning in the 5th Century, is not to be missed – an immense stone fortress on top of a rise, it rises dramatically over the surrounding plain. The Cormac Chapel within boasts stunning carvings, and the view of the countryside from the castle gives you a sense of the power and majesty this place once held.

Here in the West is also the city of Shannon, where Ireland’s second international airport is located. There are many famous castles in this region. A tour through King John’s Castle will give you a sense of the power of the kings of old. Bunratty Castle, one of Ireland’s top rated attractions, is also home to nightly medieval banquets. The Bunratty Folk Park, near the castle, is a meticulous recreation of life at the turn of the 20th Century. Durty Nelly’s is a pub located next to Bunratty Castle, and is also a great place to eat.

Adare, located nearby, is considered to be the prettiest town in Ireland. Thatched cottages, stone buildings, and ruins give this town a quaint feel. The Adare Manor has been converted to a luxury hotel – spend a night in a castle!

Continue northward to the Cliffs of Moher, where you will feel as if you are standing at the edge of the world. The Cliffs, at nearly 650 feet high, drop off dramatically to the ocean far below.

Further north you will find Galway – a lively university city – and the Connemara region. Connemara is a vibrant, wild countryside of mountains (the Twelve Pins), valleys, bogs, and lakes. Be sure to take some time to hike in the Connemara National Park. Kylemore Abbey, perhaps the most famously photographed “castle” in Ireland, is also in this region, a romantic fantasy sitting on the edge of a lake against a forested mountain. The Abbey is near the Sky Road, a circular route beginning in Clifden which offers stunning ocean views. The nearby Delphi Valley is also the last untouched glacial valley in Europe.

Finally, plan a trip out to the Aran Islands, rugged islands whose isolation has preserved traditional Irish lifestyles even to this day. The islands are crisscrossed with stone walls, and marked by several prehistoric stone forts. The most dramatic of these is Fort Angus, sitting high on the edge of a cliff. Don’t forget to buy your Aran sweaters while here!

Ireland offers many types of accommodations, including traditional hotels. But for those looking for a more immersive vacation, I highly recommend staying at a Bed & Breakfast. Often more affordable than hotels, Irish B&Bs provide the opportunity to meet local families and experience a taste of “being at home”. Full, hearty, traditional Irish breakfasts are served every morning. Ireland also presents the opportunity to stay in a castle or a manor house, including one that is reputed to be haunted.

To begin planning your journey to Ireland, begin at Tourism Ireland’s web site: http://www.tourismireland.com . From there you can search for a “Shamrock Club” member, a travel agent who is an Ireland Specialist certified by Tourism Ireland. Remember, peak season is during the summer, and many popular attractions will be crowded – or sold out – so be sure to plan in advance for many of the sites that you most want to visit.

A vacation to Ireland will give you the chance to explore a new country, yet still evoke a sense of home. The haunting beauty of this country will stay with you long after you return – and you will quickly learn why visitors to Ireland return again and again.